Happily joined train 10 for the trip to Samarkand after another lovely breakfast, this time after chatting to some lovely Dutch ladies about their travels. I am forever grateful to the unknown men who pick up my case and carry it up the stairs for me, without their help I would have probably given up a week after starting this trip!
The seats were certainly different, not ones that you would wish to sit in all day. The four hours on the train were pleasant enough and I enjoyed trying to chat with a lovely lady very similar in age to me. She was self-taught in English so between us and the language translation in the Lonely Planet book we managed to have a conversation! Ever fascinated by the passing scenery it was obvious there had been a lot of rain in the last 24 hours or so, from the scoured banks of rivers. I hoped the railway line was secure as some of the damage looked to be very close to the rail lines. Met again at the station this time by a twenty-year-old student, after having another guy carry my bag for me from the train.
We finally made it to the hotel down small and tattered back streets but in a wonderful location. It is certainly a character-filled place! Set around a tree filled courtyard , strewn with muddied wedding dresses A welcoming apricot drink from a jar with the whole apricots still in it certainly different, as well as green tea as a welcome. Taken sitting outside under a canopy on a carpeted floor. I take the spiral staircase to the third floor and overlook the Registan, how cool is that!
Walking around the upstairs deck you can see several mosques. The roofs of buildings certainly appear dilapidated but sprout satellite dishes occasionally. My room overlooks a lovely courtyard filled by trees. It seems that all the rain they have had of late must have been a deluge, as there is about 40 dress dummies with out clothes, while all around in sodden and dirty piles are the remains of what appears to be wedding dresses! A depressing sight no doubt, if you are the owner of them. Mrs. is the hard worker, while Mr. plays at being “mine host” I guess it’s the patriarchal society they live in!
I wandered as I do, to check out the locality for food supplies and to get my bearings. The small shop or local food market thought I was American and were apparently impressed to know I was a Kiwi. I am sure they were pleased to sell me some of the yogurt they had in store. A product that in these countries is quite expensive. I didn’t stop very long as the rain still lingered the first rain, since landing in Shanghai over a month ago, been lucky in avoiding it.
The third floor room and ensuite are very pleasant, the floors covered with many patterned, oriental style mats. Oh, joy it has a fridge, which is great, something I have noticed in all these countries is the lack of cold food or drink. They have fridges, but inevitably the food /drink is never cold , so I relish a fridge and “cold” stuff!
Unfortunately, at this stage there is no hot water to shower, so guess what is on the list for tomorrow! I cannot fathom how to work the sink and bath plug system, either! The bed a comfortable (at long last after the hard beds of late) king size with single/double sheets if you could call them that, no pillows, just huge cushions , the duvet cover ripped and torn in the centre not a great look, but where does culture finish, and sloppy hotel keeping begin? I feel the basics should at least be a clean bed and pillows, not much to expect. At least I was not bothered by bed bugs which is always a bonus when you are traveling.
Sleeping was delayed when there was a lot of noise outside, drums and chants… a protest march, no less. Tomorrow the chap that picked me up is taking me around to see the sights for the day in his car, as he likes to think of himself as a translator. Will be nice to try this form of travel, as the streets here are very long and wide, and I just do not see my self covering the distances. While most of the main sites are within about five kms, it’s the kms walked around the sites themselves that are often the punishing ones! I can see and walk to the Registan easily, but the sheer size is going to take me some effort to see everything.