Amazing Train Trip, from Bar

Belgrade
St Sava church, Belgrade

Last day in Belgrade
After arriving in late from Bar, this time a twelve hour journey, punctuated by stops for unknown reasons of varying lengths of time. The same chap that had wished me a welcome to Montenegro was again checking my passport at the border. Hello , he says , its me again, did you enjoy Montenegro?
I was blown away that he should remember . So I had to add that I had enjoyed it veey much. He says now you will have to come back next year! If only I thought I could, who knows?
I was starting to get very sick of eating my small croissants with caramel and other fillings. they are very nice in small quantities. I would rather a filled roll but with the heat, fresh food I feel is at risk so I only buy things think will handle the heat and a backpack . KIT KATS don’t like either!
Once the canyons had disappered I settled back into playing with the ipad.
This attracted the attention of some small boys who kept running down to my seat and just staring at me, most kids do anyway so that in its self wasn’ t a bother but you could see them also looking at the computer. ignoring them I purposely changed to Tom cat and pretended to play with him, all the while watching them out of the corner of my eye. You see the sheer fascination on their faces, so I put Tom in front of them and had to show them how to touch the screen. The littlest lad about 6 conttoned on very quickly and soon was belting the hell out of Tom. The older boys a bit slower, so they all had turns. After some time I said it was my turn and they were happy to go back to where they came from somewhere further up the carriage. Half an hour later the two older kids came back, one really the spitting image of one of my grandchildren. So I showed them other games I had , I only have 5 apps for games just really for the grandchildren but yes, I play too!
Of them, they ended up playing Angry birds and played happily together each taking a turn. It was after getting the same screen every time , I had to show them the score they had to beat to move on to the next screen. They didn’t speak english and I have no idea what language they were speaking, chances were high that it was serbian! Once they realised that they were away! It was getting close to Belgrade by now and time to put the ipad away, wouldn’t have lasted much longer in any case, therenwas just 11% battery power left on it. The kids had a lot of fun, children around the 9-10 age group are good kids. Tom has been a hit with the children around the world.
Train arrival into Belgrade an hour late, but I was amazed at the crowds of people and the piles of luggage the platform waiting for the night train to Sofia. The train I would be catching tomorrow night. A quick walk from the station to the hostel as it was essentially dark, but the streets I had to go were reasonably well lit so I wasn’t overly concerned. After being got at by the thief while in Bar, my confidence has taken a little bit of a hit. It was good to be welcomed back to the hostel and my room ! Tiny though it was it was mine for the night. A cup of camomile tea and something to eat saw me hitting the sack fairly quickly.

Samarkand

Samarkand
Samarkand

Happily joined train 10 for the trip to Samarkand after another lovely breakfast, this time after chatting to some lovely Dutch ladies about their travels. I am forever grateful to the unknown men who pick up my case and carry it up the stairs for me, without their help I would have probably given up a week after starting this trip!

The seats were certainly different, not ones that you would wish to sit in all day. The four hours on the train were pleasant enough and I enjoyed trying to chat with a lovely lady very similar in age to me. She was self-taught in English so between us and the language translation in the Lonely Planet book we managed to have a conversation! Ever fascinated by the passing scenery it was obvious there had been a lot of rain in the last 24 hours or so, from the scoured banks of rivers. I hoped the railway line was secure as some of the damage looked to be very close to the rail lines. Met again at the station this time by a twenty-year-old student, after having another guy carry my bag for me from the train. 

We finally made it to the hotel down small and tattered back streets but in a wonderful location. It is certainly a character-filled place! Set around a tree filled courtyard , strewn with muddied wedding dresses A welcoming apricot drink from a jar with the whole apricots still in it certainly different, as well as green tea as a welcome. Taken sitting outside under a canopy on a carpeted floor. I take the spiral staircase to the third floor and overlook the Registan, how cool is that!

Walking around the upstairs deck you can see several mosques. The roofs of buildings certainly appear dilapidated but sprout satellite dishes occasionally. My room overlooks a lovely courtyard filled by trees. It seems that all the rain they have had of late must have been a deluge, as there is about 40 dress dummies with out clothes, while all around in sodden and dirty piles are the remains of what appears to be wedding dresses! A depressing sight no doubt, if you are the owner of them. Mrs. is the hard worker, while Mr. plays at being “mine host” I guess it’s the patriarchal society they live in!

I wandered as I do, to check out the locality for food supplies and to get my bearings. The small shop or local food market thought I was American and were apparently impressed to know I was a Kiwi. I am sure they were pleased to sell me some of the yogurt they had in store. A product that in these countries is quite expensive. I didn’t stop very long as the rain still lingered the first rain, since landing in Shanghai over a month ago, been  lucky in avoiding it.

The third floor room and ensuite are very pleasant, the floors covered with many patterned, oriental style mats. Oh, joy it has a fridge, which is great, something I have noticed in all these countries is the lack of cold food or drink. They have fridges, but inevitably the food /drink is never cold , so I  relish a fridge and “cold” stuff!

Unfortunately, at this stage there is no hot water to shower, so guess what is on the list for tomorrow! I cannot fathom how to work the sink and bath plug system, either! The bed a comfortable (at long last after the hard beds of late) king size with single/double sheets if you could call them that, no pillows, just huge cushions , the duvet cover ripped and torn in the centre  not a great look, but where does culture finish, and  sloppy hotel keeping begin? I feel the basics should at least be a clean bed and pillows, not much to expect. At least I was not bothered by bed bugs which is always a bonus when you are traveling.

Sleeping was delayed when there was a lot of noise outside, drums and chants… a protest march, no less. Tomorrow the chap that picked me up is taking me around to see the sights for the day in his car, as he likes to think of himself as a translator. Will be nice to try this form of travel, as the streets here are very long and wide, and I just do not see my self covering the distances. While most of the main sites are within about five kms, it’s the kms walked around the sites themselves that are often the punishing ones! I can see and walk to the Registan easily, but the sheer size is going to take me some effort to see everything.