A pleasant Uzbek breakfast shared with a Polish couple who have been here two weeks and fly home on Mon. My favourite nuts, bread rolls and cake things you see everywhere, along with our own pots of green tea all eaten on the carpeted floor and small table.
My car for the day arrived soon after 9am. Our first brief stop was at the Registan, a massive place; I will see it tomorrow at my pace. From there we went on to the other mosques as well a look at the markets that were close by. The mosaics on all of them have been amazing and given the ages of the buildings , that range from the 1300’s into the 1500’s the preservation of them is impressive. They were very peaceful to wander in and generally very cool, shaded from the hot sun by trees and heights of the buildings.
The most popular, over run with tourists and local people. Of course, there were the usual entrance fees and backhanders for parking. I ventured into one of the local toilets for the many tourists there. As luck would have it half were closed and the remaining half for both men and women. Doors that did not close, squat toilets, flies and stench had me moving back to the car very fast. Not before seeing a donkey and its cart, waiting patiently in the hot sun for its owner.
I had the need for more som so it is off to the black-market dealers in a particular street. Why the individual felt the need to close the front doors ,as at the same time the sister of the driver took the US dollars from me walked across the pavement and gave the money to him was one of those moments , I had to ask ,Why…….
I returned to the hotel for lunch for a welcome break before continuing. This time we saw the Gur Emir Mausoleum. Built in the 1400s as a tomb for Timurs grandson, he himself was later buried in a tomb there, as well as other members of his family.
By now, I am suffering from an overload of decorative mosaic tiles! Samarkand is a UNESCO world heritage site, when you see these magnificent buildings, the tiles and the age they are, you can only be astounded. We enjoyed time outside the mausoleum as well. The arrival of a bride for a photo opportunity created some interest.
Across the road was the mausoleum for the Emirs advisors, which I found charming in both size and proportion. Not tiled as the others it was still a striking looking building with a beautiful courtyard.
The next stop was at the observatory of Ulug beck, both fascinating and interesting, with a museum to complement the archeological dig. I found the underground piece of the sextant amazing. Apparently, they managed to get calculations on the length of a year to within a minute of the actual time. This without any real instruments.
After here I wanted to go to a supermarket not ‘the markets’ so it is off down potholed roads that you would not believe, these are main roads not side roads. Some very deep and to be caught in one would cause major damage. Another driver seen in the middle of the road changing a tyre. Even my driver laughed and enjoyed my horror! They found a supermarket and I happily browsed the shelves looking for more food for the next few meals.
Samarkand is a beautiful city if you overlook the potholes, crazy driving, and disgusting toilets. The tree lined streets and courtyards of individual properties soften the sometimes-boring buildings. For the most part the architecture is both pleasant to see, and blends in with the surroundings. The many parks with statues and, just green space give it a lovely feeling. If only they would fix the roads!
The hotel has spent another day with out hot water, it is being blamed on the flooding they have experienced, and I suspect it’s more likely that it has been turned off to save money as there are few people staying here at present