A Stunning Day in Warsaw.

Polish Memorial
Polish Memorial
In Warsaw Castle
In Warsaw Castle

Advice from the Warsaw hostel staff put me on the right road to get to see the old city as it is called. In actual fact,  a great deal  was flattened in World War 2. What is now termed the old city has in fact been totally rebuilt, but in details reproduced from the destroyed buildings. A feat in itself, but one that has you believing that it is actually as old as it is supposed to be. The Poles are very proud that the city has been given a world heritage award. The large plaque is there on the ground for all to see.
Leaving the hostel to get the metro was just a short walk away. Like all the metros I have tried, it was clean, fast and very easy to master, even if the ticket machines spat the dummy on several occasions for me in one day. The trick appeared to be rub the coin on the machine and hey, presto it worked!
The Warsaw metro is simple in that it really only has the two lines, there and back ,so counting the stops made getting off simple.
I got tickets at half price although I had no idea if it was the correct amount, but they do need to encourage tourists so……..!
Getting off at the Arsenal stop initially had me confused, as there are huge roads, large amounts of traffic and pedestrians in all directions. The map the hostel had given me to guide was a good one , but did not have the detail that some of us need. Eventually I discovered the correct road, as always one just needs to go that bit more to find what you are looking for.
I wandered into the old city square, it was certainly an incredible sight with the castle , the old buildings ,the cobbled streets ,school kids everywhere.

Hard to imagine sixty something years ago it was just a pile of rubble.
First to visit the castle, so got the ticket and then started to follow the
arrows to do the castle route. Couple of times I was asked for the ticket, before going downstairs to leave the backpack and coat at the cloakroom.
Coming back up and starting the tour I was asked for the ticket again!! Having to indicate that it was downstairs I was allowed to continue on my way. It was beautifully done with actual paintings of some of the old masters hanging on the wall, on loan from various institutions. All in keeping with the time frame of the period.
Not as opulent as Catherine Palace in St Petersburg it was still very glitzy with mirrors , furnishings and the inevitable gold lacquer on all the carved wall pieces. The living quarters, the chapel and all the rooms that led in a procession from the guards to the kings throne room. It just depended on how important the matter was!
Taking my slow wander through the castle meant it was lunchtime by the time I reached the end of the route. I was delighted to find a Pizza hut very handy to the castle with free wifi! As I always carry the ipad when ever out and about it was definitely Pizza for lunch. Decision easily made as the hostel wifi had been down before breakfast and I really had to have my internet fix! Check the emails, as there is only a narrow time frame to check with home. They are sleeping or I am sleeping!
I hadn’t eaten at the ‘Hut’ for a very long time, just too expensive at home. Here they had a lunch menu for 15 zloty, which I felt was good value for the delicious tomato soup and a cabonara pan pizza and the added bonus of wifi with a good fast connection.
After lunch more wanderings down narrow cobbled streets, so realistically reproduced if I had not read about it I certainly would not have realised they were the same age as myself. So many photo opportunities, one of the more moving many Polish names of soldiers killed in past offensives defending their country, some young men of just sixteen years of age. I sat and listened to some magnificent organ music being played within the chapel that I discovered the plaques. It is the little gems like those that make a trip memorable for me. Buildings are a dime a dozen, so to speak , but it is the people within them that give you the memories.

Hidden Corners
Hidden Corners
Wreaths to the fallen Soldiers
Wreaths for the fallen Soldiers

Amazing Samarkand !

Samarkand, lady in prayer
Samarkand, lady in prayer

A pleasant Uzbek breakfast shared with a Polish couple who have been here two weeks and fly home on Mon. My favourite nuts, bread rolls and cake things you see everywhere, along with our own pots of green tea all eaten on the carpeted floor and small table. 

My car for the day arrived soon after 9am. Our first brief stop was at the Registan, a massive place; I will see it tomorrow at my pace. From there we went on to the other mosques as well a look at the markets that were close by. The mosaics on all of them have been amazing and given the ages of the buildings , that range from the 1300’s into the 1500’s the preservation of them is impressive. They were very peaceful to wander in and generally very cool, shaded from the hot sun by trees and heights of the buildings.

The most popular, over run with tourists and local people. Of course, there were the usual entrance fees and backhanders for parking. I ventured into one of the local toilets for the many tourists there. As luck would have it half were closed and the remaining half for both men and women. Doors that did not close, squat toilets, flies and stench had me moving back to the car very fast. Not before seeing a donkey and its cart, waiting patiently in the hot sun for its owner.

 I had the need for more som so it is off to the black-market  dealers in a particular street. Why the individual felt the need to close the front doors ,as at the same time the sister of the driver took the US dollars from me walked across the pavement and gave the money to him was one of those moments , I had to ask ,Why…….

I returned to the hotel for lunch for a welcome break before continuing. This time we saw the Gur Emir Mausoleum. Built in the 1400s as a tomb for Timurs grandson, he himself was later buried in a tomb there, as well as other members of his family.

By now, I am suffering from an overload of decorative mosaic tiles! Samarkand is a UNESCO world heritage site, when you see these magnificent buildings, the tiles and the age they are, you can only be astounded. We enjoyed time outside the mausoleum as well. The arrival of a bride for a photo opportunity created some interest.

Across the road was the mausoleum for the Emirs advisors, which I found charming in both size and proportion. Not tiled as the others it was still a striking looking building with a beautiful courtyard.

 The next stop was at the observatory of Ulug beck, both fascinating and interesting, with a museum to complement the archeological dig. I found the underground piece of the sextant amazing. Apparently, they managed to get calculations on the length of a year to within a minute of the actual time. This without any real instruments.

After here I wanted to go to a supermarket not ‘the markets’ so it is off down potholed roads that you would not believe,  these are main roads not side roads. Some very deep and to be caught in one would cause major damage. Another driver seen in the middle of the road changing a tyre. Even my driver laughed and enjoyed my horror! They found a supermarket and I happily browsed the shelves looking for more food for the next few meals.

Samarkand is a beautiful city if you overlook the potholes, crazy driving, and disgusting toilets.  The tree lined streets and courtyards of individual properties soften the sometimes-boring buildings. For the most part the architecture is both pleasant to see, and blends in with the surroundings. The many parks with statues and, just green space give it a lovely feeling. If only they would fix the roads!

The hotel has spent another day with out hot water, it is being blamed on the flooding they have experienced, and I suspect it’s more likely that it has been turned off to save money as there are few people staying here at present