Krakow Archives - Solotravel

Wieliczka Salt mines

Having done the trip out to Auschwitz , the other must see for me was that of the Wieliczka salt mines. Until I started planning for this trip I had never heard of these mines. Once I had my attention drawn to them it became a must see. The longevity of the mines, first started in the thirteenth century, it was still producing salt in 2007. The sculptures in salt all too much to pass.

Leaving at 10.15am left time for a leisurely breakfast and Wifi fix. Then off to the square to meet the bus for the tour of the Wieliczka salt mines. About ten or twelve of us boarded the small bus, and in the capable hands of our driver and guide we set off to the salt mines becoming part of the million or so visitors that visit every year.
Half an hour away from Krakow it was an easy drive and covered much the same route that I had seen the previous day . I don’t know what I expected but a plain building surrounded by the inevitable souvenirs and coffee shops was not what I expected of a salt mine well over 700 years old. The driver dropped us at the main gate to save walking too far in the heat that was rising by the hour. Time for a toilet stop, then we were collected by our respective guides to go down the mine, one English speaking, one Polish.
We had been warned there would be a lot of steps to go down, over 800 in actual fact! Not all in one go, as we would go down some , see a sculpture or point of interest walk along a passageway and then do the same again. I could feel my claustrophobia sitting there waiting to take over. The thought that we were going deeper and deeper was not a good feeling. Our guide
telling us he had been down the mines over 3000 times and hadn’t lost anyone yet, for me was not the best thing to say. It is always there is a first time for everything, and why not today! The temperature a constant 14-15 degrees was very pleasant, although cool, it wasn’t a problem
As we passed the various statues and displays all carved out of salt , you could not help but wonder about the skills and patience of the miners. The guide kept us amused and interested as he told the tales and history of the mines along the over 2.5 kms of mine alleyways, steps and caverns. I didn’t suffer with my phobia at all as there was too much else to take in.

We passed lakes of salty water with a ph that would not let you dive into the water and come up again. He told of a tale of a boating accident that was just that, not particularly deep water but of a density very dangerous to the people that fell out of the boat. A man selling photo permits for 10 zloty, I felt was a rip off merchant, and didn’t buy one, some did. The chapel was a beautiful sight, with its salt carved religious figures. The nativity scene with its translucent baby Jesus, the figures look dark and gray, but putting a light through them gives an eerie glow. The last supper from the painting by Michelangelo magnificent. The chandeliers and the way they looked, could have been the real thing, only all done with salt crystals……stunning.

Certainly from the chapel on the carvings were a delight. On to the hall to find shops and more beauty in salt, surrounded by the excited chatter of hordes of school children. From here we were treated to another lake this one from
the recent history and construction. Lights to suit the music that was added to create a wonderful spectacle of a still , shimmering salty water lake.

From here we were guided to the waiting lifts, staying first in the underground reception area that included Wifi and a mobile signal for all those that had suffered from not being connected.
Then on to the lifts. These held nine people each , just cages with small holed sheets of metal making the walls secure. This for me was the worst hurdle to get over, the lifts were stacked in a group of four apparently. The trip to the surface was a mercifully fast 51 seconds. I couldn’t have stood much longer being cooped up like that.
Finishing off the day with more steps before going out into the very warm day with the welcome sight of the sun!

Krakow

Bloody taxi drivers are rip off merchants everywhere! Krakow was no different!

How did I know? I had gone to the wrong one of two exits at the Krakow train station and the taxi from there would have been 25 zloty to go the long way round to the hostel. I walked to the other exit and to the taxi stand the driver had about 1-1.5kms to drive and it was the same as the other guy had quoted. I objected of course, but in the end there is no option, you take it or you don’t!
When you are old, tired,hot and just a bit grumpy with architects who design a beautiful new train station and don’t consider escalators of lifts for those of us who need a helping hand once in awhile.
I really couldn’t believe my eyes seeing Krakow’s rail station, nearly finished and no allowances made for the disabled. Obviously designed by men! Perhaps they will add those little niceties later, although I doubt it. Ridiculous, to say the least.
The errant taxi driver explained that he couldn’t take me to the door of the hotel but he would drop me close to it. He had dropped me close to the old city square, where the hostel was located. I later discovered that vehicles are only allowed in the square until 10 am in the morning.
The only problem it was a big square! A sight that had me saying “Wow! What an incredible sight, the churches, the buildings, the horse drawn carriages giving those people keen to try, a ride. no doubt for a price, I never did find out the cost of those.
Asking people of its whereabouts was even more confusing as no one seemed to know either.After walking for some time looking, hauling heavy bags on cobbled streets in a summery 25 degrees, my patience was wearing thin. Finally someone did know where it was and wouldn’t you know it , the opposite direction to which I had previously been told!
At least the bags felt lighter knowing that. Getting there simple, but…. and always there is a but, my room was on the fourth floor. Great views over the square but for tired feet and legs a not so great walk up the circular stairway.
In a six bunk room this time so would be interesting. Rested and a coffee fix had me back down stairs to see some of the square and its surrounding buildings. There was a wedding in one of the churches so slipped in and enjoyed the ceremony. The square was so busy, I was reminded very much of the Piazza in Venice ,with all the pigeons and people, but here it was noisy, outdoor cafes and bars, buskers everywhere, souvenir sellers galore both inside and outside. The evening particularly appealing with the light displays and music demonstrations, all interupted by the clop of horses and carriages going around the square. I was pleased to see the horse had special shoes on, I assumed it was to protect their feet from a long day on the hard surfaces.
Oh, joy, when I saw a very discreet M of Maccas in a side street.
Mcdonalds for dinner then back to the hostel. Interesting to see that Maccas did not have their ususal decorations on the shop. The golden arches very subdued, in keeping with the old city square buildings. It was a very long climb up those stairs for the last time of the day!
Pleased to have wifi every where, after the last hostel with little room to move ,this one had plenty of rooms and bathrooms!
I think I may have been the wrong age group for this hostel, despite notices saying quiet after ten. It was a saturday night after all. Finally at 2 am I gave the kids a bit of a burst, not that it made a great deal of difference, but they did seem to get the message. Unfortunately the individual loud noises continued and because of being on the fourth floor no one in reception would have been aware of it. Alcohol and young people are not a good mix in any country.

Warsaw – London

While in Warsaw and Krakow I had been on the two trips with the same company, so their airport shuttle was very reasonable. Best of all because I planned on being at the airport early, I was picked up from outside the hostel. Until 10am the vehicles have access to the square, so it meant that I didn’t have to drag my heavy bags over .5kms to the normal pickup point. I had booked with Polish airline LOT for my flight to London. It was a change in plans as I had a tooth play up and was starting to need dental care. I felt it better to go to England first instead of coping with a language I couldn’t speak.

After being picked up it was off to the airport, unfortunately I hadn’t realised the initial flight to Warsaw was at the domestic terminal not the international terminal. At the airport there was a free bus to go to the domestic terminal from the International one. It was a ten minute walk there, but because of the heat and heavy bags I chose to use the bus , it arrived a few minutes after I waited at the stop and started filling immediately.

Not a good choice, nearly 45 minutes later the bus left to go to the domestic terminal. I could have made the trip four times! Much to the disgust of some passengers, who got off the bus and walked to the domestic terminal.
Reaching the domestic terminal I joined the queue for the flight to Warsaw,connecting with London later in the day. As the queue slowly made its way through, LOT cancelled the Warsaw flight! Rebooked on a later flight ,it was going to be 8pm before I left Poland for London.
When eventually I reached the terminal , there were several hours to wait until the flight to London. Happily there were Wifi hotspots to use and use them I did. A nice meal at one of the restaurants to finish off the polish zloty that I had left, had a handy plug that allowed me the opportunity to charge the iPad again before catching the 8pm flight. As my big bag had been checked through to London I was relieved of the hassle of carting it around. I found the prices of food in the transit area, particularly expensive, in one place, ridiculous! An amazing 37 departure gates meant a huge hall and considerable walk to gate 18 for me.

The flight to London pleasant, with wonderful views of London by night, especially seeing the bridges across the river Thames. The hostel had a pick up service which I thought I had missed because of the delays. Fortunately the was an hour time change so made it with time to spare. A service that I really appreciated with it being 10.30pm, I was starting to flag!

A few mins later we were at the hotel. Ah, bliss a comfortable bed and a TV that spoke english!