Solo traveler in Istanbul

Itinerant fruit seller hotel
Itinerant fruit seller hotel

This was to be my last day on my own in Istanbul, before joining the tour around Turkey.
Down to the disappointing breakfast of just bread rolls, and coffee, I was getting a bit tired of the idiosycrasies of this hotel, the fan, the smells that emanate from the pipes in the bathroom.
I had promised myself a visit to the small mosque a few minutes away, no hills to climb either. So after breakfast I set out to do just that. Set down a side street as it was, one would have thought it would be quiet but there were a steady stream of visitors to see it. The five hundred year old mosque was attended by an old turkish man, who gave out the scarves to the women. Having done so he went back to his praying or chanting, not sure which it was.
Dutifully wearing the scarf that the old man had adjusted for me , to be worn the correct way obviously mattered to him and I was happy to oblige.

It was a pleasure to wander around the simple mosque, lacking the opulence of the bigger ones , it was cool and interesting to see. A climb up the stairs to the balcony provided views from the windows of the graveyard and the adjacent buildings.
There is only so much to see in an empty mosque so it wasn’t long before I headed back to the hotel via the Ziva Baba restaurant where I had enjoyed reasonable priced and tasty meals over the last few days. Soup it was, with the lovely turkish

Small mosque
Small mosque

bread .

After lunch plodding up the hill to the main attractions for one last look and a free piece of turkish delight from the shops. Past the grand Bazaar with its hundreds and hundreds of shops with their very keen vendors and their constant “hello” I have become so accustomed to going to see the mosques I know I will miss the people , the shops that I have used . Faros with its Wifi and excellent food. I suspect they used to talk about the lady that never left a tip, but they always smiled and were always very pleasant. Considering the prices they charged, why would they even need a tip!

The day had not lost any of its heat, so before long it was back to the hotel to pack and think of dinner. Back down the hill for the last time , I had become very attached to the place, with its cats everywhere, the old men sitting around on benches and chairs. Playing cards in the side streets that were even grottier than the hill street I used. Washing hung from the windows, no maintenance done for many a year, the rubbish, kids playing ball in the streets. The shops with their goods spilling on to the street, the smells of the small bakeries and cafes. The wonderful view of the sea at the end of the street.

small mosque
small mosque

The beachfront interesting in its own right. Within walking distance of the hotel and under a rail bypass, it was a real pleasure to come across this area one night after dinner. The after work traffic jams a reality. Crossing the road only possible on the pedestrian crossross now lights, and even that wasn’t without its risks. The look on a womans’ face as her husband had to throw
on the brakes to avoid hitting me and several others was a classic. The beach front in name only as the huge rocks that lined it were not user friendly, but the ingenuity of the fishers and the teenagers who were swimming, amazing. Even a dog got into the act swimming , and trying to pluck up the courage to get on the rocks as the swells came and went at times very fast. Some
had concreted pads made between the rocks to rest their small cookers and seats on. With it being Ramadan there were of course all the families waiting with their picnics at the ready for sunset. Then there were the usual street sellers with the inevitable rolex watches, perfume, jewelry, water and sweet corn.

Istanbul Seafront
Istanbul Seafront

The small harbour had boats coming and going both big and small. Some were available for hire, along with a few inflatables. Off the coast at a distance were probably a hundred of more ships of varying sizes waiting to berth at the port. I watched a cruise boat leave, one that I had seen the same morning docking. They must have spent their ten hours having a quick look at Istanbul. Something I am glad to have spent more time doing, and enjoying all that the city has to offer even though it will not ever be enough.
Always the cats in and around the city, mostly fed but feral, they are everywhere from the mosques to the humblest street corner. I was fascinated by many cats sleeping all over motorbikes in a parking space. The seafront was no exception, with the restaurants lining part of it, what better place for a cat to call home. They are surprisingly quiet although I make no effort to touch them in case of fleas , they just watch what you are doing and whether it’s worth their attention.
Next day off to start the tour,and I will be out of this hotel as early as is decently possible!

Cats everywhere
Cats everywhere

 

Gallipoli

Lone Pine Cemetery
Lone Pine Cemetery
Views across the Dardanelle
Views across the Dardanelle

The coach left Istanbul headed for Gallipoli on time, with our bags stowed in the bus. What bliss having someone take my bag away and not have to worry about it and its weight. The coach was comfortable enough but certainly not luxury seating. I was disappointed to see there were no toilets in the rear, wondering what the story would be if people needed to go in a hurry! That question was soon answered by Berna our guide for the fortnight She gave us a full description of the days activities including times of comfort stops as she called them! Turkish guides are all licensed and carry papers with them in case the bus is stopped and checked, as indeed it was several days later.
Our excellent driver Birtol was indeed one of those professional drivers that I have come to respect,his driving was superb and his patience unending.
The scenery changed little in the drive to Gallipoli and Anzac cove but as we drew closer the flat land changed into hilly and some mountains. As we drove along side some of the Dardanelle sea, the strait between the Marmara and the Aegean there were some wonderful views to be seen. We reached Anzac cove in the middle of the day, the hottest part.

We stopped alongside the lonely cemetery by the sea shore. The many graves of the allied soldiers buried there a tribute to their sacrifice. Their ages ranging from teenagers to those in their the forties I must say it was an emotional visit . To actually see the area that these men fought in, certainly explained it with the beach being at the bottom of hills and mountains a very difficult scenario. Towering over the area a rock formation called the sphinx for its likeness to the egyptian relic. Anzac cove while named where the cemetery was located actually stretched a distance in a gentle bay of considerable size. We left here, the coach climbing up through the pine covered mountains.

Pine trees surprised me I had never connected them to Turkey. While ours grow a lot bigger and appear healthier, these seemed to survive the heat and the dry conditions they grew in, but lacked the size. Perhaps they were harvested at a smaller size.
The next stop on our Gallipoli tour was at the Lone Pine cemetery where the majority of the Australian troops were buried. A simply stunning location, overlooking the sea, with a memorial stone that also included the names of many New Zealanders who lost their lives along side the Australian soldiers. The middle of the graves was a Lone Pine obviously the reason for the name.

The next stop was to show us the Turkish memorial, our guide being Turkish . An outstanding memorial to their fallen and of which the guide was very proud. The final stop was to see the actual trenches the men had fought in, all restored now but you could imagine the horrors of having to be in them , whether in summer or winter. The day was extremely hot when we visited, a winter would be awfully cold and miserable without any fighting.
The memorial at Chunuk Bair to the New Zealanders that lost their lives in the first World War.

Leaving all the cemeteries and memorials behind the bus turned towards the town for the ferry crossing from the european side of Turkey to the asian side. There is just 3 % of Turkey in Europe with the remainder being on what is called the asian side. We arrived early for the ferry so waited a few minutes in the queue of vehicles parked in the street also waiting to board the ferry. The ferry arriving discharged its load of vehicles including many coaches, after which they started on loading the queue. It seemed at first that we wouldn’t make this particular trip as the boat seemed to be quite full, but no there was room just….for the bus.

We all got off and headed for the upper deck for the best views of the Dardanelle straits. Truly lovely in the mid afternoon sun, the ferry turning before going through the exit from the harbour. A twenty minute trip that was nearly over before we realised it, and had to get back on the bus ready to drive off, of course there is always one late person, today there was no exception, the guide rushing off to find them and just making it back before the driver took off. There has to be order with the loading and unloading of the vehicles and I gathered no one was allowed to linger once the ferry was docked!
From here we were driven to Canakkale where we were spending our first night of our tour after meeting at the hotel the day before.
The hotel turned out to be situated right on the beach front, as well as having pools . Once our luggage was in the rooms, which were very nice, we changed into swimming gear and went down to the pools. They turned out to be salt water pools that were really warm. The best part was you didn’t sink, floating became the order of the day! A chance to experience the Dead sea. for real.
Many people from the coach took advantage of the great conditions , some going down to the beach, some in the pools , some sitting at the bar holding a cold beer! After the pool there was time for showering and dress for dinner, something I hadn’t counted on, with my limited wardrobe a hard call. The dinner was a very nice one and the end of a perfect day.

Some of the memorial graves
Some of the memorial graves
Anzac cove
Anzac cove