July 2017 - Page 2 of 6

Amazing Samarkand !

A pleasant Uzbek breakfast shared with a Polish couple who have been here two weeks and fly home on Mon. My favourite nuts, bread rolls and cake things you see everywhere, along with our own pots of green tea all eaten on the carpeted floor and small table.

My car for the day arrived soon after 9am. Our first brief stop was at the Registan, a massive place; I will see it tomorrow at my pace. From there we went on to the other mosques as well a look at the markets that were close by. The mosaics on all of them have been amazing and given the ages of the buildings , that range from the 1300’s into the 1500’s the preservation of them is impressive. They were very peaceful to wander in and generally very cool, shaded from the hot sun by trees and heights of the buildings.

The most popular, over run with tourists and local people. Of course, there were the usual entrance fees and backhanders for parking. I ventured into one of the local toilets for the many tourists there. As luck would have it half were closed and the remaining half for both men and women. Doors that did not close, squat toilets, flies and stench had me moving back to the car very fast. Not before seeing a donkey and its cart, waiting patiently in the hot sun for its owner.

I had the need for more som so it is off to the black-market dealers in a particular street. Why the individual felt the need to close the front doors ,as at the same time the sister of the driver took the US dollars from me walked across the pavement and gave the money to him was one of those moments , I had to ask ,Why…….

I returned to the hotel for lunch for a welcome break before continuing. This time we saw the Gur Emir Mausoleum. Built in the 1400s as a tomb for Timurs grandson, he himself was later buried in a tomb there, as well as other members of his family.

By now, I am suffering from an overload of decorative mosaic tiles! Samarkand is a UNESCO world heritage site, when you see these magnificent buildings, the tiles and the age they are, you can only be astounded. We enjoyed time outside the mausoleum as well. The arrival of a bride for a photo opportunity created some interest.

Across the road was the mausoleum for the Emirs advisors, which I found charming in both size and proportion. Not tiled as the others it was still a striking looking building with a beautiful courtyard.

The next stop was at the observatory of Ulug beck, both fascinating and interesting, with a museum to complement the archeological dig. I found the underground piece of the sextant amazing. Apparently, they managed to get calculations on the length of a year to within a minute of the actual time. This without any real instruments.

After here I wanted to go to a supermarket not ‘the markets’ so it is off down potholed roads that you would not believe, these are main roads not side roads. Some very deep and to be caught in one would cause major damage. Another driver seen in the middle of the road changing a tyre. Even my driver laughed and enjoyed my horror! They found a supermarket and I happily browsed the shelves looking for more food for the next few meals.

Samarkand is a beautiful city if you overlook the potholes, crazy driving, and disgusting toilets. The tree lined streets and courtyards of individual properties soften the sometimes-boring buildings. For the most part the architecture is both pleasant to see, and blends in with the surroundings. The many parks with statues and, just green space give it a lovely feeling. If only they would fix the roads!

The hotel has spent another day with out hot water, it is being blamed on the flooding they have experienced, and I suspect it’s more likely that it has been turned off to save money as there are few people staying here at present

Samarkand

Happily joined train 10 for the trip to Samarkand after another lovely breakfast, this time after chatting to some lovely Dutch ladies about their travels. I am forever grateful to the unknown men who pick up my case and carry it up the stairs for me, without their help I would have probably given up a week after starting this trip!

The seats were certainly different, not ones that you would wish to sit in all day. The four hours on the train were pleasant enough and I enjoyed trying to chat with a lovely lady very similar in age to me. She was self-taught in English so between us and the language translation in the Lonely Planet book we managed to have a conversation! Ever fascinated by the passing scenery it was obvious there had been a lot of rain in the last 24 hours or so, from the scoured banks of rivers. I hoped the railway line was secure as some of the damage looked to be very close to the rail lines. Met again at the station this time by a twenty-year-old student, after having another guy carry my bag for me from the train.

We finally made it to the hotel down small and tattered back streets but in a wonderful location. It is certainly a character-filled place! Set around a tree filled courtyard , strewn with muddied wedding dresses A welcoming apricot drink from a jar with the whole apricots still in it certainly different, as well as green tea as a welcome. Taken sitting outside under a canopy on a carpeted floor. I take the spiral staircase to the third floor and overlook the Registan, how cool is that!

Walking around the upstairs deck you can see several mosques. The roofs of buildings certainly appear dilapidated but sprout satellite dishes occasionally. My room overlooks a lovely courtyard filled by trees. It seems that all the rain they have had of late must have been a deluge, as there is about 40 dress dummies with out clothes, while all around in sodden and dirty piles are the remains of what appears to be wedding dresses! A depressing sight no doubt, if you are the owner of them. Mrs. is the hard worker, while Mr. plays at being “mine host” I guess it’s the patriarchal society they live in!

I wandered as I do, to check out the locality for food supplies and to get my bearings. The small shop or local food market thought I was American and were apparently impressed to know I was a Kiwi. I am sure they were pleased to sell me some of the yogurt they had in store. A product that in these countries is quite expensive. I didn’t stop very long as the rain still lingered the first rain, since landing in Shanghai over a month ago, been lucky in avoiding it.

The third floor room and ensuite are very pleasant, the floors covered with many patterned, oriental style mats. Oh, joy it has a fridge, which is great, something I have noticed in all these countries is the lack of cold food or drink. They have fridges, but inevitably the food /drink is never cold , so I relish a fridge and “cold” stuff!

Unfortunately, at this stage there is no hot water to shower, so guess what is on the list for tomorrow! I cannot fathom how to work the sink and bath plug system, either! The bed a comfortable (at long last after the hard beds of late) king size with single/double sheets if you could call them that, no pillows, just huge cushions , the duvet cover ripped and torn in the centre not a great look, but where does culture finish, and sloppy hotel keeping begin? I feel the basics should at least be a clean bed and pillows, not much to expect. At least I was not bothered by bed bugs which is always a bonus when you are traveling.

Sleeping was delayed when there was a lot of noise outside, drums and chants… a protest march, no less. Tomorrow the chap that picked me up is taking me around to see the sights for the day in his car, as he likes to think of himself as a translator. Will be nice to try this form of travel, as the streets here are very long and wide, and I just do not see my self covering the distances. While most of the main sites are within about five kms, it’s the kms walked around the sites themselves that are often the punishing ones! I can see and walk to the Registan easily, but the sheer size is going to take me some effort to see everything.

Tashkent

Usual early wakeup, it is so exciting wondering what these days in Tashkent will bring. A very nice breakfast in the dining room made a good start to the day. After breakfast, I asked the staff about getting some cash from an ATM, but no one seemed to know a great deal about them. Therefore, I asked about changing some US dollars that I carry “just in case”. I had it explained that there was two systems in the country, the legal and the illegal. I had heard about this, so agreed to change $US 50. It was quick and simple to do; I knew the exchange rate so it was easy to see if I had been taken for a ride.

Pleasantly surprised to find the exchange definitely in my favour.How ever it saved me walking just for money! I did spend the day wondering if I was passing counterfeit money, especially if someone crinkled a note little too closely! The monetary system is a laugh; they have huge wads of money just for the everyday transactions like buying groceries. I had over 100,000(som) in notes, strange feeling, pity it wasn’t worth a great deal

I set off walking to the subway, to get to the Chorsu markets on the other side of town. These are a must see, regardless of how long you are in Tashkent. Finding the subway or Metro, as it is known, took a while and I eventually found it. Then it was about trying to find out how many stops before getting off the train at the markets, as they have their own Metro station. Stopping at the stations, I found to be very interesting, they were all decorated differently and I would have loved to have taken some photos, but apparently it is frowned on, and one can find oneself in trouble with the law.

A scary moment when police officer stopped me and asked me for my passport supposedly checking but I just think he was bored. How is it that one always feels guilty even in far off lands! Fortunately, I was aware of this and readily produced it. He only asked because I was different The grey hair stands out in these countries but everything was in order, he could not complain about the shiny new visa with yesterdays date stamped on it!

The presence of many people doing what I consider ‘nothing sort of jobs ‘must be soul destroying for the people concerned. Just standing around all day must get boring indeed and any distraction welcomed, like bothering tourists! There has been evidence of this practice right from landing in China, give people a uniform and a place to stand……..The Metro exit was right in the market place.

Reaching the markets and up the inevitable stairs, but what a scene at the top! The domes of the Friday mosque on the hill behind the market or bazaar, the huge green central dome of the market itself and hordes of people everywhere gave a completely new meaning to ‘markets’.

I started walking, I could not stop smiling, and it was everything I had imagined. Up to the mosque to get an overall view and picture of the place, then to start around the stalls, the shops, the open air trestles under the domes and roof of various buildings.

Because it is on the famous ‘Silk Rd’, it is one of the oldest markets in the world, it certainly had a permanent ambience. I wandered through meat markets with every thing on sale right down to the leg and hoof of various animals. Given that the day was quite warm, meat certainly would not have been on my shopping list.

I know they have been doing this for hundreds of years but…….. !

The fruit markets with all manner of fruit, I rather fancied some mandarins so picked one up to check that it was an easy peel variety, the woman behind the stall got a bit cross! She lost herself a sale there because I am particularly fond of mandarins. Perhaps you are not supposed to touch the merchandise.

The spice markets beneath the big dome were wonderful for the smells, the visual experience and the sheer hum of people living their daily lives was fascinating and intriguing and easy to imagine it happening just the same way hundreds of years ago. The women in their native dress made me feel almost naked in T-shirt and jeans; however, they look lovely and very probably hot. I mentioned this to an English speaker and was told that when you grow up knowing no different you just get on with life.

All the markets were amazing; there were vegetables, the garden plants, selling seed by weight instead of so many to a packet as we have. You could name any thing and I am sure it would have been available there. I stopped for lunch at one of the café style places, and dined on Plov, a sort of rice dish that I was becoming quite fond of, the inevitable bread and green tea. These countries really do have many bread products for sale. Not good if you are trying to keep the weight, off!

Time for some more wandering but the day was nearly gone and my feet were feeling the effects. Back to the Metro for the return trip to the hotel, the metro was so easy to use and at 700som about 50c NZ. The only drawback I have found on most subways in Asia is there is no English version of the stops, which makes it a little difficult when you are a foreigner! With patience and the kindness of strangers, it can be deciphered satisfactorily

Made it back to the hotel and time enough to catch up with home online with the time difference being convenient for them. Having done that and feet now feeling much better it was back outside to see more of Tashkent! Late back saw dinner being tried at a Vietnamese restaurant, very tasty.

Tomorrow it is on to Samarkand, a destination I am particularly looking forward to visiting.

Almaty – Tashkent

Filling in the morning before going on to Tashkent, was the usual final squish to get belongings in to bags, slowly getting a method after a month of travelling.
Passing a shop last evening after stocking up on supplies I noticed the name of a wireless source that had popped up on the ipad . I decided to call in and with some cheek asked if they would allow me to use their network. Nothing ventured ,nothing gained, I was incredibly delighted by the positive response of allowing me to use it. I had just an hour before leaving Almaty so there was time to catch up on emails and other stuff that one does on the iPad with a wireless network. I was thrilled to bits by their kindness.

Checking out of the hotel soon after,I was at the Almaty International Airport an hour later. Funny little airport, very busy but as i had a luggage trolley my bags were not a problem. I filled in the afternoon relatively easily with games, reading and coffee until boarding started, soon after five. The required wander around the duty free shops did little for me, no room any way! Travelling as I do , I have found most of the officials as pleasant as can be expected, but now and again there is someone who stands out as being really nice and it makes my day.

Getting on the bus for transport to the aircraft was not pleasant, there would have been half the plane load in it, they closed the doors then moved down and stopped to allow the second bus behind. It was stinking hot , people were literally jammed in like sardines. The bus became hotter and hotter and I felt claustrophobia taking over just as the bus started moving. This is just not acceptable in my way of thinking.
Getting settled in the aircraft an Airbus 320, with the window seat I was promised easily done. Not my most favourite aircraft, but it was only for about an hour. Taking off we were treated to the most glorious sight of the snow covered mountains and parked aircraft being bathed in the rays of the setting sun, truly beautiful. Sorry , no photos allowed! I had arrived into Almaty seeing the sun rise on those same mountains. Flying on to Tashkent in the west meant that I saw the sun take over half an hour to disappear beneath the horizon.

Arriving in Tashkent and landing in one piece, I discovered the airport is the most disorganised and unpleasant place to do the travel essentials of passport control or more specifically customs. I had to get a visa on my passport and with the correct papers and money quickly, easily and pleasantly done. It was then the idiocy started. Waiting for nearly two hours, xraying bags again, no specific lines to speed things up. I finally get to the desk and it seems I have to fill two forms with the usual stuff. Forms that should have been given out on the plane, if they were I certainly did not get them. I scribbled them in, illegibly, the guy did not even read them! By now its nearly 10.30 at night! Ridiculous, Auckland Airport processes far more people in ,much less time and more thoroughly. Leaving the airport to find the guy meeting me was an experience in its self, there were hundreds of people behind a barrier,many, many of them holding signs!! Fly thorugh Tashkent airport if you have to, its not a pleasant experience, be warned!

It seemed to be a while before reaching the hotel, I was concerned at seeing the wide streets and nice buildings change into poor looking dwellings and the road become more like a lane with pot holes. It was down one of these lanes to the hotel. Most interesting,at this hotel most of the young men working there spoke english in varying degrees which made a real change for me after getting by on sign language for a while. Tomorrow is another day!